Unit 8 – Hair Conditioners
Reconditioning hair through the use of hair conditioners is a service practiced by cosmetologists for restoring and improving the texture, appearance and manageability of normal, damaged or chemically processed hair. The improved hair condition which results from the use of hair conditioners is, however, only temporary.
The reconditioning process consists of the application of an acid balanced hair conditioner or an after-shampoo rinse. These products restore cuticle strength and sheen the hair. The ingredients of hair conditioners do not become a permanent part of the cuticle’s surface.
The cortex constitutes the major portion of the hair fiber. Conditioners are absorbed into the cortex but the results cannot last because the hair components are dead and cannot function biologically. Shampooing the hair, therefore, will remove any and all deposits made through the conditioner’s processes of absorption and adsorption. Therefore, the results of hair conditioners are always temporary.
Hair conditioners have an acid pH and are used after shampooing the hair. The functions of a good hair conditioner are to:
- Help prevent damage to the hair
- Help protect damaged hair from further damage
- Help restore damaged hair to normal or a less damaged condition
- Leave the hair untangled, easy to comb, supple and glossy
- Add more body to limp or fine hair
Many hair conditioners contain the organic, water soluble substance called protein. Protein hair conditioners are compatible with hair and protect it from chemical and environmental influences. It will also provide normal hair with a thin, protective film and fill the voids and damaged sections of the hair. Water alone can remove protein conditioners from the hair.
There are five types of hair conditioners:
- Time measured conditioners are those that are applied to the hair at the shampoo basin and remain on the hair from three to five minutes before they are water rinsed from the hair. They are coating conditioners which do not penetrate the hair shaft because the size of their molecules is too large for penetration. They leave the hair soft, tighten the cuticle, add luster and seal in natural moisture.
- Instant conditioners are applied to the hair after the shampoo at the styling station. These conditioners have a very small molecule size. They penetrate the hair shaft and do not have to be water rinsed from the hair. These conditioners also leave the hair soft, tighten the cuticle, add luster and seal in normal moisture.
- Conditioners combined with styling lotion are applied on wet hair after the shampoo. These conditioners coat the hair and give it extra body. They tighten the cuticle, seal in normal moisture and add some luster to the hair.
- Neutralizing conditioners are used at the shampoo bowl after the shampoo when the hair has been exposed to strong alkaline hair products. They have a low acid pH with both a penetrating and coating action. They are left on the hair from three to five minutes and are then water rinsed.
- Heat activated conditioners are those which require a mild application of heat from an infrared lamp, hair dryer or heating cap in order to effect some penetration. They also coat the hair. After five minutes, the hair is water rinsed. The hair is left soft with added luster. The cuticle is tightened and has a higher moisture content.
Hair care, hair and scalp treatments, scalp massage: A hair hygiene program designed to preserve the health and beauty of both the hair and scalp.
Overview: This chapter provides you with the necessary information for a complete hair care program. It includes a method of hair treatment as well as scalp treatment and scalp manipulations.
Behavioral objectives-student goals: After completion of this chapter, and after study, instruction and practice, you will be able to perform and demonstrate competency in hair and scalp treaments and scalp massage by demonstrating: a scalp treatment, a hair treatment and scalp manipulations. You will also demonstrate competency by identifying, explaining and/or listing: The anatomy related to scalp treatments, the accessories required for hair and scalp treatments and the application and effects of hair conditioners.
Care of the hair and scalp constitutes one of the most important services that the cosmetologist offers. Many men and women neglect hair and scalp hygiene because they are not educated about the seriousness of this need. Today, however, people are more conscious of their hair and scalp. The cosmetologist, therefore, should be prepared to recognize individual needs and provide whatever service may be necessary.
Product knowledge is an important part of hair and scalp care. One must know the correct product, the method of application and the type of service to perform in order to treat a specific condition. As a successful hairdresser and cosmetologist, you will be required to make product knowledge an important part of your practice.
Scalp treatments are recommended for the normal healthy person in order to preserve the natural health and beauty of the hair. Avoid scalp treatments immediately before:
1. A permanent wave
2. A hair coloring applications
3. A hair straightening treatment
Sanitary and safety precautions for hair care, hair and scalp treatments, scalp massage
- Read and follow the product manufacturer’s directions.
- Omit scalp treatments before cold waving, hair coloring and chemical straightening.
- Do not use metal items together with a heating cap.
- When using a heating cap, use a low setting on sensitive heads.
- Always cover the hair with a plastic covering before using a heating cap.
- Sanitize implements before each use.
- Check all electrical appliances for safe wiring.
The most important aspects of disinfection are the removal of forgiegn matter (loose hair, dandruff, etc.) and a good scrubbing of the instruments and hands with warm soap and warm water followed by a thorough rinsing. Instuments must be totally immersed in 70 % isopropyl alcohol or other E.P.A. Approved disinfectant for a minimum of 10 minutes, Then wiped dry before use. These procedures should also be used before disinfecting implements prior to storage for reuse.
- Unit 1 – Hair Brushes and Brushing
- Unit 2, 3, 4 – Scalp Manipulations and Movements
- Unit 5 – Accessories for Scalp Treatments
- Unit 6 – Procedure and technique for the application of liquids and creams for scalp treatments
- Unit 7 – Hair Treatments and Procedure
- Unit 8 – Hair Conditioners
- Hair Care, Hair and Scalp Treatments, Scalp Massage